Sunnmøre is the modern cradle of alpine climbing in Norway. Whatever you want, it is here. And it is accessible. Long exposed ridges, compact towers of granite, giant north faces with unclimbed icicles and mixed lines. This is the ultimate alpine terrain.
Norway is this beautiful country, where the common philosophy of travel is. Purely based on each individual protecting the nature he is using. Not littering, not damaging. leaving only footprints on the ridge.
The outdoor living is for the most part, a very relaxed hippie like state of being. Less chase and catch than the white picket fence thing. But I sometimes feel that everyone discredits the wast knowledge needed to camp out. This knowledge is what gives the safe comfort to play outside. To much wind ? lets dig down then!
With brand new gear, little to no experience. We ventured into the hills of Oppdal. As we got brand new gear, we also go no budget. Hiding in the forest around Oppdal, and posting from the Cafe network ( Glamorous life ) To start big and work our way down is our best known strategy. So we stepped right on Kongsvollfossen. One of the classics.
After getting done with the approach in some what one hour. We Soloed up to the first WI3 pitch. Managed to find some rock under all that ice to blunt down the axes, and to bomb the belayer in ice!
took us something like 4 hours to get up, but no glisade down made it a total of 6 hours car-car. Looking forward to see the same route, with different ice.
Working in Iceland do have some perks. One of them is to fill your SD card with Icelandporn. Trying to avoid this. I made a series of photos that is not focusing on the amazing landscapes. Leaving those to.... someone who cares!
So this is like, a glimpse into Mountainguides every day life. A small selection at least. There is a lot of love out here, different from any other workplace. This is what makes great guides, even better.
We don't make many good choices. But we made one good one. We were going to stay in Innerdalen for a good week. Giving us time to get sorted, and adapt to conditions. Next out was less of a obvious choice.
So, learning from the fuck up from Tårenet. We were out the door around 05.00. D. Beach was a literal zombie on skis. We left most of our climbing gear, half our lunch. And only packed cold coffe.
At some point this spring all the planets aligned, weather seemed good. And we headed up in the mythical area, known by many names; big-scary, the longest approach, Mecca or simply paradise. By locals its called Innerdalen...
So the walk in there with all the gear was hell. And all we had to look forward to was getting dinner and relaxing. Only that D. Beach was coming after Me, Kyrre and Gluten. With the key for the cabin from Molde-town. Slowly realizing that we must be 4 hours before D. Beach. We were cold and hungry and there was no end to the suffering. I took the task as a lockpicker and got us in there with cunning skill.
Innerdals tårnet ended in bail, bail from the original plan. And bailed from the summit. Bailed from sunscreen. Got some half descent snow on our way down, and a new perspective on time spent walking in chest deep snow up a 45* couloir.
Winter is creeping closer, Iceland pornography keeps streaming. Switching into winter mode. Axes have been sharpened. And all the beer consumed over a summer of guiding is going to get punished in the early season. For now, it seems to be survivable not to work over the winter. But only time will show, the next mission will be in Trollheimen Region.
Time to get out there and rip it up !
There have been a halt in activity on the page. This is simply cause I am not around a computer that often any more! since I got hired in Iceland, I travel light and leave most of my belongings behind for the summer. All that came with me over is climbing and camping gear. That when you think about it ; its plenty.
The job I do in Iceland is different from any job I have had in Norway, in the way that it is a huge operation. There is more than a hundred people up at the ice a day, we are a double digit of guides at any given time. And there is so many resources!
The commercial guiding might seem uniform and boring, but in reality the mass commercial guiding is for a time. A very good opportunity to test and learn a whole set of different skills. Both hard and soft, as for managing people. And to recognize the opportunities the terrain gives you. As well as where it will restrict you.
This is something you wont have time to explore if you do longer trips, or if you don't guide as much. But being on the ice two times a day. In the approximate same area, you can really get a feel of what is really good. And how different guests act in different places.
What I enjoy the most on climbing trip, is how childish people become. There is something in climbing that inspires to explore the little places, in between rocks. Under and above. As you don't climb all day, every day. Climbing trips are trips you end up spending time, outdoors. Doing nothing, enjoying the sun. Making a few throws with the fishing pole, and just hiking around in the nearby area.
living the glamorous life as a guide, with low-to-no rent! And a obsession for the cold