Also we found a interesting hidden crack, in plain sight. Called "crack criminal" 10a. Shouldn't be a problem we thought, Gluten jumped on it first, and cruised up without really putting to much effort in placing lots of pro. Until he gets midway in a sequence demanding to step down from a great under cling to some thin fingercrack. before doing some committing smearing steps up past the crux. Gluten got shaken looking at the last .5 in the under cling, realizing it was the only thing keeping him from decking in a fall. Back climb up to the piece and doubling up before moving past what felt more like 5.11 than 5.10a. Humbling shock! Managed to get the flash, but only by the tip of the shoe!
Got the wonderful opportunity to assist on the Rock One course with Thompson River now in April. Also going down there with a agenda of our own, to bag a bunch of world class single pitch trad climbs. As I was assisting there was plenty of time and opportunity to shoot, here is the result !
Over the course of the week we got a whole bunch of climbs down, among them Bat girl 10d ( 7- roughly ) and what probably was the nicest climb all week, a 5.9 corner cleaner than Oscar petterson on piano, and very even up to the top bit. Remarkable climb.
Last real Canada post, Now I'm back in Todalen to do some serious sending!
living the glamorous life as a guide, with low-to-no rent! And a obsession for the cold